But I usually do the same with digital too. Most of the time I think it looks better to leave bad light and resulting colors be rather than trying to correct them like a digital file. Working mostly with the existing information and not drastically altering white balance other than removing the cast from the base. And if you don’t like it you’ve not lost anything. You can always take the result into Lightroom. If you’re in Photoshop have a look at Grain2Pixel ( ) - it’s free (although they’d like a donation) and it’s more versatile than a straight inversion.

Much easier to work with sliders going the way you would think they should go! After saving the inverted image and quitting, it opens up in LR and I am all set to go.Įarlier today I successfully inverted a negative in photoshop and imported to Lightroom. Press Command I to invert, then Command W to quit. So, I just open the negative image in LR, then select 'edit a copy' (Command E) in PS. I tried this but quickly figured out that it makes all the sliders used subsequently do the reverse of common sense. They promote a 'work around trick' using the tone curve and suggest reversing the curve and saving as a custom curve. It is odd though, that LR does not yet have an invert feature. I definitely will check out Negativlabpro

Thanks for taking the time to compile the list. There are a number of pieces of software you might consider, including the following list - some are free, some paid for, but the only one running in Lightroom is NLP In Lightroom you’re probably looking at Negative Lab Pro (NLP) as the best way to do the inversion (although I’ve never used it as I don’t like Lightroom ).

Trying to learn how to color grade a color negative is a real challenge for me. Your rendition obviously is augmenting blue! One of the problems (for me) is that the controls tend to be reversed.increasing exposure darkens image, etc. Thanks! I'm hoping I get some advice using Lightroom.I do have photoshop but don't have the patience, time, or skill to use that program effectively. There was no processing of this - I just loaded into ColorPerfect, set it to Kodacolor II preset and converted it, taking all the defaults. Using the Kodacolor II preset (if you know the film that would help) This was done in ColorPerfect and Photoshop.

Buying lightroom